Weblog of a Syrian Diplomat in America

Metropolitan Philip

Among the many guests at our house in Kalorama, Metropolitan Philip Saliba, the Antiochian Orthodox Bishop of North America, stands out as one of the most distinguished guests to honor us by their presence.

My friendship with this remarkably enlightened, erudite, eloquent and patriotic leader of the Antiochian church dates to the early days of my posting in the United States. Since the first time I met with him, Metropolitan Philip won my heart and mind and made of me one of his orthodox disciples, albeit a non-Christian one.

Four years ago Metropolitan Philip invited me to the orthodox haven known as the Antiochian village in Pennsylvania.  He warned me that there will be no TV or similar entertainment, “just bring along your books” he said “and come refresh your soul in that Spartan resort.” It was a unique experience that I am looking forward to repeat in the foreseeable future.

   

When Rafif first came to the US, before Sidra was born, I introduced her to Metropolitan Philip. He blessed us and wished us a beautiful and healthy offspring. At the dinner event, I made sure that Sidra and Saree would be there to greet his eminence and make him feel at home.

Throughout the evening, Metropolitan Philip enchanted us with his reading of modern Arab poetry, particularly that of Nizar Kabbani who he considers to be the foremost Arab poet of the twentieth century.

   

   

 

Saree Crawling

Saree is proving himself to be a match to our little tsunami Sidra. He was only five months old when he started, to our total amazement, crawling.

Not content at merely crawling, the little devil is desperately attempting to stand up. He has not managed yet, but he is very earnest on it.

Sidra, was so impressed by her brother’s accomplishments that she reverted to crawling alongside him.

 

 

 

End of the Summer Vacation

Resuming writing in my blog on returning from the summer vacation is usually a formidable challenge for three main reasons.  First: I have too many things to write about that I simply don’t know where to start, what to include and what to leave out. Second: On coming back to DC after a long absence I am overwhelmed by a large backload of work, meetings, reports, memos and a variety of issues that I need to address, which leave me very little time or energy to come back to my blog. Third: I could not have resumed blogging before I first sorted out and organized the large amount of photos I have taken during this vacation. Being a photography aficionado, I usually end up with loads of pictures that need an earnest effort in archiving and filing. If I procrastinate, the effort to catch up with the photo organizing chore at a later stage becomes Herculean.

This summer vacation included Syria only (besides the short London stays back and forth). We did not travel elsewhere because we thought that traveling with two children (which is a first for us) would not be easy. And indeed it was not. We soon discovered that the effort required for taking care of two children when traveling exceeds by far double the amount of effort needed to take care of one only. Saree, god bless him, is a very active baby. However, the synergy created by him and his tsunami of a sister definitely tests the fortitude of any parents.

As usual, the highlight of the whole visit was the family. All four grandparents were delighted to meet their new grandson and enchanted by the charms of Sidra. We were keen on spending as much time as possible with the family despite the enormous pressure on our time by the numerous friends who will not take no for an answer when they insist that we must accept their invitations for lunches, dinners, iftars and souhurs.

   

Highlights from our stay in Damascus included an evening with Ahmad Mualla, Yasser Hammoud and Rima Salmon- all three are prominent artists- as well as Yarub Badr, the minister of transport, and Nabil Asswad. Naturally Ahmad presented his latest artistic creations, and the discussion focused mostly on art, culture and architecture. Good food and drinks made these thorny issues more palatable.

Dr. Sabah Kabbani, the former Syrian ambassador to the U.S., with his customary generosity and polish, honored me with a sumptuous lunch to which he invited a number of retired ambassadors. I was humbled by their warmth and conviviality and entertained by the many anecdotes they had for me from their erstwhile diplomatic life.

An escape to the sea shore was the only exception from the rituals of social life in Damascus. We went to the newly opened Rotana resort near Afamia (Apamea), and stayed there for five days. Yet it was not a total escape. There also, we encountered hordes of friends. This is just life in Syria. In Lattakia I had the chance to meet for the first time Zeina, Rafif’s cousin who I have known for years through phone conversations and email exchanges, but never met in person before.

While there, every body told us that we should go for lunch or dinner to a newly opened mountainous resort up on the coastal mountains, which we did. Fifty minutes drive from Lattakia, we reached ‘Mountain Breez’ amidst a breathtaking mountainous landscape near the village of al-Kulaila. The trip there was a unique experience that reminded us of our excursion in the Spanish mountainous regions between Andalusia and the Costa del Sol.

When in Syria, I revert to my original reading habits, that is, reading in Arabic. A wonderful book that I have always wanted to read but never had time for was Rifat al-Jadirji’s masterful treatise on the dialectics of Arabic architecture. The huge volume is entitled “AL-Ukhaydar and the Glass Palace”. Al Jadirji (also written: Chadirji) is a renowned Iraqi architect that has previously introduced me to the world of architecture through his splendid book “Taha Street and Hammersmith” and to whom I owe my ever-increasing architectural awareness. Additionally, I read half a dozen political books and biographies, including those by Yussef Faisal, Muhamad Maarouf, Muhamad Haidar and Abdullah al-Khani. My summer readings included only one novel, Azazeel, by Youssef Zeidan, which rightly deserves its own entry in the books section of my blog. Having said all this, I have to admit that this vacation was not particularly about art, culture and friends as we used to do in the past. I can state that it was primarily about spending time with our parents and our little ones.

The Archbishop of Jerusalem Blesses Saree

Yesterday, we had a visitor to our home in Kalorama Rd that will always be cherished and remembered with pride and joy. He was none other than the legendary archbishop of Jerusalem Hilarion Capucci.

Archbishop Capucci entered history as the catholic bishop who was imprisoned by Israel in 1974 for four years, then exiled away from his adoptive country Palestine. He has been roaming the world ever since, just like the flying Dutchman, hoping to be able to make it back to his beloved Jerusalem before he leaves this unjust world.

His personal tragedy notwithstanding, Archbishop Capucci is a gregarious, witty, charming and charismatic person. He captivated us with his vignettes, jokes, history and politics. He recounted to us his latest act of defiance when he tried to bring food and medicine to Gaza in February 2009 aboard a small ship that challenged the Israeli naval blockade, but was eventually caught by the Israelis, insulted, shackled, deprived from food, prevented from taking his medicine (he is a man of 87 years), and deported to al-Qunaitra in Syria.

He also reminisced about his childhood in Aleppo. He recounted how he mediated on behalf of President Carter to free six US soldiers captured in Iran. When he went to Iran for this mission, he ended up staying as the house guest of the Grand Ayatollah al-Khomeini in Qum for three days - a privilege many Iranians would envy him for.

To add icing to the cake, Archbishop Capucci blessed our new born baby and his big sister and prayed for them as well.

 

Yale, Finally

As I have said before, I had been invited to speak almost everywhere in America: major universities, small colleges, world affairs councils and city clubs – even military and navy academies. The one big exception was, until now: Yale. I was never invited to talk at Yale.

In the last two months I gave a speech at Duke’s in Durham, North Carolina; Gorge Mason’s at Fairfax, Virginia; and finally at the Middle East Institute in Washington. However, yesterday, I headed, to the most prestigious and oldest of all American Universities.

I took the plane to Hartford, Connecticut - and was then driven by car to New Haven where Yale occupies most of the town. This is very similar to the layout of Cambridge and the famous relation between town and gown.

 

 

I started my day with a meeting with the Vice President where we discussed possibilities of establishing a partnership between Yale and one of the major Syrian universities, as well as offering some scholarships to students from Syria to come and study at this renowned center of academic excellence.

Following that, I had lunch with a group of academics and administrators from Yale, including Professor Ellen Lust an acclaimed political scientist.

After a fascinating visit to the university’s richly endowed library, the Council on Middle East Studies hosted me at the Macmillan Center for a public speech and a discussion of the Obama vision toward the Middle East. In the evening, I went to dinner with more academics from Yale, most notable among them was Professor Harvey Weiss, an expert archeologist, who has worked in Syria for decades.

Today, I had lunch with a number of academics from Yale at Sam Gejdenson’s fabulous house where I met his art loving wife Betsy. All that happened before taking the train to Boston to attend a meeting at the MIT dedicated to discussing ideas about establishing an innovation center in Syria with the full support of the MIT.

Needless to say, that yesterday, Monday the 4th of May marked Saree’s completion of the second week of his life. It was the first night that I slept away from my new baby.

Saree: Welcome to this World

Today, April 20th 2009, Saree al-Sayed Moustapha has become Sidra's little brother. We have become a family of four.

 

Syrian National Day Celebration in Washington DC

On April 17, we celebrated the Independence Day at the Mandarin Hotel in Washington. The huge attendance was a testimony to how Syria is regarded by the American people despite years of trying to distort its image, particularly during the Bush era.

 

 

 

   

Washington's foremost blogger and the director of the New America Foundation Steve Clemons paid me the best compliment I have ever had since I came to America when he wrote:

"Yesterday evening, I wanted to pay my respects to a fellow blogger and lover of the arts, Imad Moustapha- who also happens to be the Ambassador of Syria to Washington."

I am usually described here as the Ambassador of Syria who is also a blogger and a lover of art. Clemons's way of introducing me was music to my ears.

The event was attended by the Syrian community from the national beltway, American friends of Syria, academics, diplomats - including almost all Arab ambassadors, prominent personalities from the US State Department, and major think tanks pundits. Most notably:  it was heavily attended by the media. Representatives of major TV channels, national newspapers, influential internet sites, bloggers and independent analysts participated in celebrating Syria's national day. The implication of their heavy attendance was both a rebuke to the Bush legacy, and a strong condoning of President Obama's policies of dialogue and respect.

Another notable blogger had also this to write about our national day celebration in his Friday Lunch Club blog. However, a less friendly comment appeared in Foreign Policy's Syria on the Potomac. Well, after all, this is life in Washington DC.

Music and Songs from Syria

Last month was particularly rich in regards to Syrian music and singing in America. Four different groups performed at various venues across America with unanimous critical acclaim. The al-Kindi ensemble of traditional oriental music performed at the Eisenhower Theatre of the Kennedy center, whereas the group led by Kinan al-Azmeh presented modern jazzy music, mainly composed by Kinan himself, at the Millennium Stage of the same center.

However, the two major events were those of the Farah children’s choir that won the hearts of large audiences in three different states, and the concert presented by six Syrian artists from the National Symphony Orchestra who performed with the Pacific Symphony Orchestra in California hosted by their conductor Carl St. Clair at the Sogerstorm Concert Hall.

The music critic of the Orange County Register wrote approvingly: “Music director Carl St.Clair invited members of the Syrian National Symphony Orchestra, including its conductor, as well as Syrian folk musicians to take part in an "Arabian Nights" program. The government of Syria, of course, is officially considered not one of this country's best pals. But music will make friends. Thursday's concert unwound as a leisurely exploration of traditional Arab music and instruments, heard in the plush context of symphony orchestra accompaniment. The Syrian musicians were welcomed warmly by the audience and seemed pleased by the reception, sending plenty of warmth back.”

The concert included pieces played by virtuoso soloists and conducted by Missak Baghbadourian, as well as a concerto written by the talented Syrian composer Zaid Jabri and conducted by Mark St. Clair. Firas Shahrestan played Vivaldi’s Four Seasons on the Qanoun, Mussalam Rahal played Shafi Baddredin’s Concerto for Nai and String Orchestra, Mouhammad Osman presented on his buzuk Muhamad Abdul Rahim’s Tango for Buzuk and Strings.

The doyen of classical music in Syria, the late Solhi al-Wadi was not absent from this concert. His orchestral piece "Meditation on a Theme by Muhammad Abdul Wahhab" was presented. The piece was described by the Orange County Register as "glitzy, lush and romantic." Presenting music by Solhi al-Wadi was particularly laden with emotions. Al-Wadi was not only the founder of the Syrian National Symphony Orchestra, but he also toured California with his orchestra fifteen years ago, and performed with his young Syrian musicians in Orange County. The biggest surprise for the evening was the composition of Zaid Jabri for clarinet, cello and orchestra. Kinan Azmeh played the clarinet solo part, while Kinan Abu Afash played the cello part. Once again, the young Zaid Jabri is proving himself to be the finest musical talent from Syria on the world scene at present. His “Oriento Grosso” uses modern discords and a contemporary idiom within an Arabic musical context to produce a strong captivating work with a powerful dramatic overtone.

Damascus, again and again

Last month I had a fabulous trip to Damascus. I went there for business, attended official meetings and did lots of public engagements (lectures, press conferences and media activities), but I also had an excellent time with my family, friends and the vibrant cultural scene there.

Because I was accompanying some visiting US Congressmen and Senators (with their families), I also spent a relatively long time going around the old town in Damascus – my favorite place in the world. I accompanied them to places as varied as the ancient Jewish synagogue in Jubar and the holy Shiite Shrine of Sett-Zeinab.

 

 

While in Damascus, I had the opportunity to attend the art exhibition of Rima Salmoun at the Art House gallery, visit the new studio of Ahmad Mualla and attend a concert of the Syrian Philharmonic Orchestra (works by Rossini and Tchaicovsky were presented, but I have to admit that I was not impressed).

I also joined the Syrian charity BASMA in a press conference to advocate the cause of children with cancer in Syria. The only event that I regret to have missed was an evening with the renowned Syrian poet Nazih abu-Afash. The reason was simply: total exhaustion.

 

One downside to this visit though: I intensely missed Sidra and Rafif. A separation that lasted for a fortnight proved to be more than what I was prepared to withstand.

Tajweed at the Claremont College

Last week we came back from a trip to California. I was invited there by the Claremont College to give a speech. It also included an interview with the Los Angeles Times.

As usual, meetings with the community and friends constituted the highpoints of the trip. The list of friends we met there included Selma and Hazem Chihabi; Lara and  Robert Rezko; Dina and Habib Lahlouh; Barabara and Adnan Asswad, Ghada and Ray Irani; Hassan and Mrs. Mushammel; Talal and Mrs. Baidoun; and Ihsan and Mrs. Nizam.

Sidra also had lots of fun running along the strand of Laguna Beach.

 

 

 

One of the outstanding experiences I had there was when professor Bassam Franjieh of the Claremont College brought his Arabic language students (30 plus young American women and men) to greet me, and to my big surprise and bemusement they all joined in a choired recital of two Quran verses: 'al-Fatiha' and, and the famous ‘You have your religion and I have mine’. - memorized by heart and sung according to the best tajweed traditions. Very civilized indeed.